Two new repeaters by Patek Philippe Rare Handicrafts Geneva

There is a hierarchy of complications in the world of watches. Probably the simplest clock is a calendar. In addition to the time, there is an indicator on the dial with numbers from 1 to 31. They are applied to a disk, inserted under the dial, add a pair of gears to move it one step forward per day, and the job is done.

As the number of parts begins to grow (along with prices), the mechanisms require more and more attention from the watchmaker. At the top of the hierarchy is the minute repeater and other complications with gongs, which, unlike the perpetual calendar and split chronograph, resisted industrialization. The masters of Patek Philippe not only know all the techniques of making decorative watches, but also have deep institutional knowledge of how to approach complex watchmaking.

“It cannot be disputed that working with a repeater is actually a scientific part of watchmaking. Therefore, it requires more theory for design and more subtlety and precision in production. That’s why it’s more important than other types of work.”

At the exhibition “Rare Crafts 2021” in Geneva, Patek Philippe presented a number of new watches, including a new version of the Sky-Moon Tourbillon, and also released three new minute repeaters. Everyone distinguishes different elements of complex watchmaking in their own way, and at the heart of each is the minute repeater, a combat complication that, perhaps more than any other, is most closely related to Patek Philippe.

The 5304 is the latest version of the watch, which has been in the collection in one form or another since 2014, when it was released in red gold. The bezel of the new version is decorated with 80 baguette-cut diamonds. Production of the original 5304 was discontinued in 2019.

With a diameter of 43 mm and diamonds shining around the already highly detailed dial, this is a very modern watch, although in recent years Patek has tried to take a more decorative approach to the case design. This is a godsend for those who are passionate about mechanics. The back of the watch gives a good view of the minute repeater (the hammers and gongs are in their usual place along with the centrifugal regulator that controls the tempo of the chimes).

The components under the dial are designed for a perpetual calendar, which, although not as dynamic as a repeater. They have their own charm. The heart of the traditional perpetual calendar is a program disk, the steps of which encode the length of each month. There is a retrograde date display. Patek has managed to make the dial surprisingly legible. Any watch with a skeletonized or open dial, especially complex ones, involves a compromise between readability and visual aesthetic value.

There are different ways to deal with complex clocks. On the one hand, you can create a sophisticated skeleton similar to 5304. However, the traditionalist approach is to abandon transparent watches and give preference to watches in which complication is mostly a personal pleasure. The 5374G-001 minute repeater is definitely in the camp of discreet and modest luxury watches.

When this watch was released in 2016, it was in a platinum case with a black enamel dial. The new version is made of white gold with a blue enamel dial. The use of platinum for making minute-long rehearsals is considered ideal because it is a very durable material for complication with gongs. The density and crystal structure of platinum make it possible to achieve good sound, although this is not an easy task.

Reference 5304/301R-001 Minute repeater with retrograde perpetual calendar: rose gold case with 80 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel. Movement: Caliber R 27 PS QR LU. The diameter is 43 mm.

Reference 5374G-001 Minute repeater with perpetual calendar: 18k white gold case, blue enamel grand feu dial. Perpetual calendar with minute repeater. Movement, Caliber R 27 Q. Moon phase function with indented enamel.

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